Monday, 14 January 2008

White Out On Sergeant Man

Looking down Langdale

The recent deaths of two walkers on England's third highest peak, the 3,117ft Helvellyn
(http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/england/cumbria/7185720.stm) is a reminder of the dangers one can face in high country, particularly in winter. Like many of my generation, preparation for such eventualities was drilled into me from an early age, via Cubs, Scouts, walking enthusiast school teachers prior to school trips to the Lakes and Dales, and the Air Training Corps. Expedition training of increasing intensity as I grew up meant that all the precautions one should take before venturing out became second nature - minimum expedition size four, survival bag, emergency rations, tell somebody where you're going so they can report you overdue, it's almost like a mantra for hill walkers. But rather like the pre-flight safety briefings to which everybody who has travelled by air is familiar, you never seriously expect to find yourself in a situation where you might need to use that knowledge.


Got all the equipment...

This trip, on 5th March 2005, started as a planned circuit of the Langdale Pikes, starting up Dungeon Ghyll to Stickle Tarn, then up to High Raise (2,500ft) via Sergeant Man, then over the Pikes back to Langdale and the Stickle Barn Inn. The weather forecast was snow over the High Pennines, but the Lake District would be clear. The white deposits of earlier snowfalls covered the tops of the peaks though and we would have to be careful.


Starting out


We slowly ascended the steep, rocky footpath up Stickle Ghyll, occasionally stopping to take in the magnificent views over Langdale. The weather was dry and there was no hint at thi point of any precipitation. As we approached the top of the Ghyll it became noticeably colder, and the beck here was frozen.

Across Langdale


Kerry route-finding. Not that way, alas...


Looking down Stickle Ghyll


Frozen stream at the top of Stickle Ghyll

By Stickle Tarn we took a breather. Ice was forming around its edges. Harrison Stickle opposite had a light sprinkling of snow on top. Sergeant Man, the 2,414ft secondary summit lay around a mile to the north. Covered with snow, it stood very impressive against the skyline, almost like a distant Mt Everest rather than a Lakeland crag.

Snow-capped peaks looking to the west: Bow Fell and The Scafells



Stickle Tarn and Harrison Stickle


Taking a breather, Sergeant Man in the distance. Although less than a mile away, from this angle with its snow covering it had the appearance of a distant Himalayan or Alpine peak

Soon after resuming the trek however, ominous clouds started to move in from the north west. Soon flakes of snow were eddying around, and before long the ground had a very fine white layer through which the green hue of the rough turf could just be made out. On we pressed, the temptation to believe this was just a light inconsequential shower being too great. As we approached the rocky base of Sergeant Man the intensity of the fall increased, and visibility dropped to zero. Ice laced the rocks leading up to the summit, and we had no crampons. Adhering strictly to the Three-Points-Of-Contact rule we gingerly made our way up, a foot occasionally slipping. Eventually reaching the top with its tall, thin cairn our predicament couldn't be clearer - we were caught in a blizzard, visibility zero. Kerry suggested we go down the way we went up, normally a sensible course of action, but given the icy rocks we had just negotiated I decided against it. In climbing most accidents happen on the descent, and the idea of trying to gain footholds again on such lethal surfaces didn't appeal.


The first snow begins to fall under threatening skies

A gentle slope led down from Sergeant Man on its north side towards High Raise. I suggested it might be better to go this way, then using pacing and compass headings to loop back around Sergeant Man down friendlier grassy slopes and back down to the footpath to Stickle Tarn. We headed north into the white-out, then north-east, south-east and then descended to the south. Images loomed out of the cloud - a landscape. Rather like descending in an aircraft things became clearer and clearer - Pavey Ark, Stickle Tarn. We were out of it. Relieved, we carried on down to put some distance between us and the weather. No way were we going to carry on with the route now, this had been a nasty jolt to our confidence and the prospect of slipping and sustaining an injury was too great.


Then the cloud started to come in...


On Sergeant Man - the grim expression says it all. No visibility, high winds and falling snow...


Up or down? There was only one sensible decision...


The Stickle Barn Inn and hot tea and chocolate seemed an attractive proposition, and the way down gave us chance to reflect on our experience. Whilst well equipped for more normal conditions, it suddenly seemed to us almost suicidal to have gone up a route such as this in these conditions without crampons. The unexpected snow fall that had moved in from the east wasn't in itself that dangerous given our gear and experience but in these underfoot conditions it could easily have been the straw that broke the camel's back (or the walker's ankle). In such visibility taking a wrong step or route is just too easy, and the unbalancing effect of high winds can be lethal too.

On the way down. Here at least we could see where we were going.

Whilst making our way back down Stickle Ghyll we were hit by another snow flurry, justifying our decision not to continue with our planned route. God only knows what conditions were like further up at this point.

Descending out of the weather, Stickle Tarn just visible behind a spur:





Finally out of it! The relief is clearly visible in our faces...


Our route, we probably came within a third of a mile (500m) of High Raise's summit:

(Image produced from the Ordnance Survey Get-a-map service. Image reproduced with kind permission of Ordnance Survey and Ordnance Survey of Northern Ireland.)

If we were in any doubt as to the true danger of our predicament, this excerpt from Langdale Mountain Rescue Team's log for 5th March 2005 dispelled it:


"6. Fellwalking Link Hause Hart Crag
5th March at 14.42

A 57-year-old woman slipped on snow and ice and sustained a suspected ankle fracture. Due to weather conditions it took about 3 hours to locate her. A helicopter was called to assist, but was of limited use due to strong winds, poor visibility and all its outside lights failing. It did manage to lift some kit higher up the hill to the limit of its visibility, but the remainder was done on foot. It was a lengthy operation, and we were assisted by Patterdale MRT on the carry off, who had come up their side to help. She was evacuated down the Patterdale side of the hill. In keeping with the usual random nature of our work, while all this was going on......


7. Rock Climbing Slab Route, White Ghyll Gt Langdale
5th March at 19.45

We were then requested to recover two climbers who had become cragfast on White Ghyll slabs. They had started climbing in daylight and had taken shelter while half way up, when it started to snow. Unfortunately the snow continued and they were unable to make any further progress. They became very cold. They were hauled to the top airlifted to the valley floor. Kendal MRT came to assist us with this one"


It was dark when we left the warmth of the Stickle Barn Inn and the Old Dungeon Ghyll at 5pm for home, an RAF Sea King could be heard on the north side of Langdale - doubtless the one attending to the first incident above. And we were perhaps fortunate that it wasn't looking for us.

Video 3min 56sec:

Sunday, 13 January 2008

Return To Mossdale

St Mary's Church, Conistone

Mid-November saw us spend a weekend in Grassington, and renew acquaintance with Mossdale Scar. A very gloomy weekend, the thick cloud cover meant darkness was looming even as early as 2pm. We took the opportunity to visit the Mossdale Tragedy memorial at St Mary's church in Conistone, and to find the other memorials at the Scar itself.

St Mary's Churchyard. The Mossdale memorial is on the left.


Looking from the churchyard towards Conistone Dib and, beyond the hill, Mossdale


Shafts of light breaking through

Unfortunately in the latter we were unsuccessful, failing to find the plaque next to the "New Entrance" (or indeed the entrance itself). Regarding the memorial cairns, it would appear the one marking the spot where deep below five of the cavers were found has collapsed. I couldn't see the small metal plaque attached (I didn't turn over any of the stones to look as I didn't want to disturb it), but according to the map this was the only cairn in the vicinity so must have been it. The heather all around was scorched by burning, I don't know if this had contributed to the collapse or not. I presume given the harsh conditions up here the cairn must crumble fairly regularly, requiring regular maintenance. Given its proximity to a gravel track it is surprising that an attempt to make the cairn more permanent by driving some cement up hasn't been made.

The collapsed cairn above Mossdale Scar. Is this the one marking the spot below which five of the bodies were found?


The second cairn - marking where the sixth body was found?
Rapidly failing daylight and the threat of a storm meant we couldn't loiter to investigate too long and had to beat a fairly hasty retreat, though it was still over two hours before we got back to Grassington. We passed a second cairn positioned next to the gravel track leading home, presumably marking above where the sixth missing caver's body was found a day after the other five.

The second cairn


Chimney near the old lead mines above Grassington

It was dark by the time we got back to Grassington, and a fine, drizzly rain was falling. The roaring fire at our B&B was most welcome.


Jo relaxing in front of a nice warm fire in the guest lounge at the B&B


Video, 3 min:

Monday, 29 October 2007

Dartmoor

I think this was a great success...

Postbridge, Devon. 9th-11th October 2007. 15 people from all walks of life (ok, one - air traffic control. But it sounds better..!). Too much happened to recount here (and I can't remember all of it...), but thanks to Al for the idea and the bike ride leads, Andy for the marvellous free acoustic gigs and everybody else for coming along!



Andy's gig on the first night


The abandoned Medieval village of Challacombe


The pub!


Norah silhouetted atmospherically against the Devon skyline


One of the two bridges in Postbridge - this is the older one dating from the Middle Ages


"Very nice. And tell me Mr Lee, why have you and the other villagers built that giant man made of twigs on the green?"


The final, shocking statistics from Wednesday's walk

Dartmoor ponies, Runnage Farm breed these

For two days, this was home

Andy's second night performance video:


Has anybody else seen Southern Comfort?


Following Geezer up the hill



Hmmmm...



Going beyond those rocks would be very, very foolish

Into the danger zone! Short video of us on the edge of the Merrivale Range Danger Area, listening to the crackle of distant gunfire:












Sunday, 7 October 2007

Over The Top

Hollingworth Lake and the viaduct carrying the M62
"Over The Top" - of the Pennines, that is. Smithy Bridge to Todmorden. Lancashire to Yorkshire. This was another fine weather window in the summer that never was, 28th July 2007. First there was a short train journey to Smithy Bridge, going through the Summit Tunnel (interesting link http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Summit_Tunnel_fire), then a walk around Hollingworth Lake before beginning the ascent up Blackstone Edge.

Blackstone Edge viewed from Lydgate

Blackstone Edge is best known for being on the route of the Pennine Way. The opening of the route across this previously forbidden territory was much heralded at the time, but the reason for there being no historical right of way here soon became evident. Rather than the parsimony of landowners, the peaty terrain here cannot sustain a natural, "Worn" footpath, and within a decade of the Pennine Way opening this section of the route became an impassable quagmire. Now reinforced with paving slabs created from the rubble of demolished cotton mills, the damage on the adjacent old route is still clearly visible decades on.

Going up the Roman Road

Previous generations knew better - an east-west route known as The Roman Road runs up towards Blackstone Edge. This is paved, with carved sections making up a drainage culvert running down the middle. The precise antiquity of this road is in dispute - Alfred Wainwright in paricular (in his Pennine Way Companion) champions the argument that it is a Medieval packhorse road rather than Roman. Certainly further along the route becomes known as The Old Packhorse Road, before becoming "Roman" again on the descent to Ripponden on the other side of the moor.




Roman road? Wainwright said not...

At the top of the hill we left the Roman Road, turning left onto the Pennine Way. Visible in the distance from here is the White House pub, with an electricity pylon towering over it. Despite their despoiling effect on the landscape the chain of pylons disappearing over the horizon appears somewhat atmospheric, one of those imperfect juxtapositions of man with nature.


The Pennine Way from here follows a track that services the reservoirs up here. Most of them were built around 1804 to provide water for the Rochdale Canal, though the last one, Warland reservoir, was opened in 1927 by the then Rochdale Corporation to supply its by then already declining cotton industry. Water stained yellow by the peat gushes into it from the moors above.

Manchester viewed safely out of gunshot range

The view from here on this day was stunning - the city of Manchester clearly visible and beyond that Fidler's Ferry power station near Warrington. Through the haze on the horizon you could even make out the Welsh mountains in Snowdonia.

Closeup - the CIS Tower clearly visible
Warland Reservoir
Monument at Withens Gate - Stoodley Pike in the background
Past Warland we got our first view of our old friend Stoodley Pike. As we walked towards it, it never seemed to get any closer, stubbornly remaining the same size on the near horizon. The rains over the summer had certainly left their mark on the slabbed Pennine Way route - much of it had sunk into the peat and was submerged. Winter walking in July...
Jo exclaimed at something she'd spotted in the Higher House Moor direction - The Red Arrows! Nice of them to salute us in this way. Must've been to mark our crossing the border into Yorkshire a mile or so back.
VIDEO: The Red Arrows Over Higher House Moor



Into Calderdale

Eventually reaching Stoodley Pike we rested, surveying the scene over Calderdale. A steady descent from here to Lumbutts and Mankinoles, once the scene of rioting over the Poor Law repeal in the 1830s, hard to believe now on a peaceful, sunny day such as this.

Strange birds - must be feeding on Ticks...
Lumbutts Mill Water Wheel Tower

A further descent from the levelled off Lumbutts area saw us back in Todmorden just after 5pm, five and-a-half hours after setting off from Smithy Bridge, having done 12.2 miles. Our moving average though was only 2.6 mph (compared to 3 mph on the much longer Haworth-Hebden Bridge Walk), almost entirely due to being slowed down by the unseasonally boggy route over the very top.